The town is small and compact, but away from the waterfront the streets and alleyways are steep and maps slightly ambiguous, so finding your way around can be difficult (the map in the free This Summer in Hydra will help). There are several banks along the waterfront, and the tourist police are on Vótsi. The post office and a laundry are on the small market square, behind the National bank. The ferry and hydrofoil offices are upstairs on the eastern waterfront, about 10m beyond the Studio Hydra shop.

There are a number of pensions and hotels along, or just behind, the waterfront in Ídhra town, often charging up to a third more than usual island rates. Some of the restaurants along the waterfront act as agents for the outlying pensions and hotels, which could save you time and footwork; better still, phone ahead and book - certainly for any weekend. The Amarillis at Tombázi 15 is a good small hotel with comfortable rooms and private facilities. There are a couple of old mansions beautifully converted into hotels: Angelica , several blocks up at Miaoúli 42, and Hydra, steeply uphill at Voulgari 8. Of the pensions, try the Erofili .

There's no shortage of restaurants and cafés around the waterfront, but for good tavernas you would do better to head a little inland. The Garden taverna, known for tasty meat dishes, is on the road heading up from the hydrofoil dock, with the equally good Xeri Elia down the narrow street outside the Garden 's wall. Above the Amarillis Hotel is the small Barba Dimas taverna, which has wonderful mezédhes, snails and fish. Further up on the same road, To Kryfo Limani is a pleasant taverna in a small garden, while further yet will bring you excellent home cooking at the Yeitoniko (also known as Manolis & Christina's ), which has tables on its roof and a small veranda. For light snacks and refreshments, try the small and friendly Pigadi caf? below the Amarillis .

For nightlife you might start at a portside bar: try the Pirate or To Roloi . Or hike up the hill west of town to Heaven , a disco favoured by the younger set. A few minutes further west on the way to Kamíni you'll have no trouble locating the Scirocco disco, if it's open.