Greek cuisine and restaurants are simple and straightforward. There's usually no snobbery about eating out; everyone does it regularly, and it's still reasonable - typically ?9-13 per person for a substantial (non-seafood) meal with a measure of house wine. Even if the cooking is simple, you should expect it to be wholesome; Greeks are fussy about freshness and provenance and do not willingly or knowingly like to eat frozen New Zealand lamb chops, farmed fish or prefried chips.

That said, there's a lot of lazy cooking about - especially in resorts, where menus are dominated by pizza, spaghetti, chops and "tourist moussak? a dish heavy with cheap potato slices, and nary a crumb of mince.

Of late you find growing numbers of what the Greeks call " kultúra " restaurants, often pretentious attempts at Greek nouvelle cuisine with speciality wine lists, which tend to be long on airs and graces, and (at ?17.50-23.50 a head) short on value. The exceptions which succeed have been singled out in the text.

When choosing a restaurant, the usual best strategy is to go where the Greeks go. And they go late: 2pm to 3.30pm for lunch , 9pm to 11pm for supper . You can eat earlier, but you're likely to get indifferent service and cuisine if you frequent establishments catering to the tourist schedule. Chic appearance is not a reliable guide to quality; often the more ramshackle, traditional outfits represent the best value. One good omen is the waiter bringing a carafe of refrigerated water, unbidden, rather than pushing you to order bottled stuff.

In busy resort areas, it's wise to keep a wary eye on the waiters , who are inclined to urge you into ordering more than you want, then bring things you haven't ordered. Although cash-register receipts are required in all establishments, these are often only for the grand total, and itemized bills will be in totally illegible Greek script. Where prices are printed on menus, you'll be paying the right-hand (higher) of the two columns, inclusive of all taxes and usually service charge, although a small extra tip of about ten percent directly to the waiter is hugely appreciated - and usually not expected.

Bread costs extra, but consumption is not obligatory; unless it is assessed as part of the cover charge, you have the right to send it back without paying for it. You'll be considered deviant for refusing it, but so much Greek bread is inedible sawdust that there's little point in paying extra unless you actually want to use it as a scoop for dips.

Children are always welcome, day or night, at family tavernas, and Greeks don't mind in the slightest if they play tag between the tables or chase the cats running in mendicant packs - which you should not feed, as signs often warn you They are wild and pretty desperate, and you'll need a doctor's visit and tetanus jab if they whack at a dangled bit of food and claw your hand instead.

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