The rock of the Acropolis (April-Sept daily 8am-6.30pm; Oct-March Mon-Fri 8am-4.30pm, Sat & Sun 8am-4.30pm; site and museum ?5.75 ) , with the ruins of the Parthenon rising above it, is one of the archetypal images of Western culture. A first glimpse of it above the traffic is a revelation, and yet feels utterly familiar. Pericles had intended the temple to be a spectacular landmark, a "School for Hellas" and a symbol of the city's imperial confidence - as such, it was famous throughout the ancient world. Even Pericles, however, could not have anticipated that his ruined temple would come to symbolize the emergence of Western civilization - nor that, two millennia on, it would attract some three million tourists a year.

As Donald Horne points out in The Great Museum , it would be hard to imagine the ruins having such a wide appeal if they had retained more of their former glory: if, for example, the Parthenon "still had a roof, and no longer appealed to the modern stereotype for outline emerging from rough stone", or if "we repainted it in its original red, blue and gold and if we reinstalled the huge, gaudy cult-figure of Athena festooned in bracelets, rings and necklaces". Yet it's hard not to feel a sense of wonder as you catch glimpses of the ancient ruins from the city below. The best of these street-level views are along Eólou, where the Parthenon forms the focal point of the horizon. Calmer and quieter vantage points higher up include the nearby hills of Lykavitós, Ardhittós and Filopáppou , where you can look on, undisturbed, from among the pine groves; a walk to one of these is highly recommended.

The main approach to the ruins is the path that extends above Odhós Dhioskoúron, where it joins Theorías at the northwest corner of Pláka. Two alternative options - though both perhaps better as ways down from the rock - are to make your way through the ancient Agora (entrance on Adhriano? or, from the south side of the slope, around the footpath beside the Odeion of Herodes Atticus.

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